Mi Diario de Cádiz

„Là, sotto i giorni nubilosi, e brevi,

 Nasce una gente, a cui il morir non dole.“

„Where the days are cloudy and short, the folk who dies gladly will be born.“

Petrarka

---

We were leaving the sunny Malaga for Cadiz that morning. A majestic bridge de la Constitution led us into the city. Locals and tourists alike were holding their hats and scarfs as the wind was playing ready to steal.

Plaza de San Juan de Dios would become our favourite spot for sunny drinks; as we arrived it was full of frolicsome folks daring to enjoy the sun between the clouds.

Not really knowing our way, we browsed the streets randomly to bump into the destination at some point. Candelaria square felt like home straight away. It reminded me of my happy childhood and playing in the yard. I would enjoy our temporary home base; I especially liked the quiet and rare sunny mornings.

Some parts of the square would be still in the shadow whilst the sun was conquering its realm spot by spot. The wind would sway the green top of the trees and howl somewhere in the height. Pigeons would coo and flap their wings. Window by window and shop by shop the square would come to life with masters walking their dogs and merchants preparing their goods.

Every little detail and sight in Cadiz is full of history and well thought through. Looking closely at the Candelaria square you would see its trapezoid shape and the four sculptures decorating each corner and standing for the seasons of the year: spring, summer are female goddesses; autumn and winter are males. Each statue carries or wears a local characteristic item. They say historic sights - former being central spots for the citizens - used to (visually) educate the folks about a.o. crafts, nature, religion.

---

The host scribbled some key locations to start the journey and handed over the map. Soon we would learn that Cadiz had a village touch to it; locals would all know each other, follow the rules and the time schedule and most important spots were within 15 minutes walk reach.

I was excited for everything new to see and feel. The city had something morbid about it; the smells of the food in the streets mixed with bleach and washing powder; buildings with chipped paint; sights closed for restauration. Its skyline looked poor and chaotic to me.

---

Only few places made us feel welcome. We spoke basic Spanish, yet locals were speaking dialect and behaved unfriendly both in shops and at the cafes with rare exceptions in the younger generations. In my opinion this city is not yet ready for tourism.

For friendly and proactive service in Cadiz I personally recommend Sonámbulo (a rustic local food restaurant) and Destino (snacks and drinks cafe). The former is at the Candelaria square close to the retro spot „Cafe Royalty“. The latter - Destino - changed its location according to different map apps, is centrally situated and offers sunny views onto the city hall and the main square. For a change, have a coffee at Marquisa de Huevas; in addition to the catchy title, they have a cute cake selection and are speedy in taking and serving orders.

---

Around Cathedral de Cadiz there is always some action and groups of people: students, pilgrims, tourists.

Le big tam-tam is being made for tourists and hotel guests at the Olom, just opposite to the Cathedral; in my experience, needlessly exaggerated with an arrogant reception and broken interior.

A stroll along the coastline is worth it on a sunny day; the embankment leads along some parks and gardens whilst you see the Atlantic Ocean with all its charm on your way.

Through the quirky streets of the city you will discover cosy and homely decorated barrios, patios and piazettas. One or another sight is also hidden from the main paths so that you need to get lost to find those.

Some sights have explanatory boards on them so that the first information about the place is introduced to those interested.

My favourite spots were the Candelaria square with its orange trees and the ambiance described above and the sunny central square with the city hall and Casas de los Pazos Miranda.

The city hall has some historic elements, some dedicated to the mythological founder of the city - Hercules. Some of you would know that Cadiz original name was Gadir going back to the 10th heroic accomplishment of Hercules; the handling of the story was situated around current Cadiz. Upon winning the challenge Hercules enabled the foundation of Gadir (Cadiz).

Casas de los Pazos Miranda are dated back to the 18th century and are architecturally designed in a similar looking way; a common look is presented to the visitors of the San Juan de Dios Square.

---

Cadiz is a summer city. Cloudy and short days featuring rain are not friendly for any outside adventures. 3 days would be enough to discover and enjoy the main attractions mentioned. The city could be a home base for your journeys up the coast de la Luz or to the east along Costa del Sol.

Let me know on instagram which sight you enjoyed most and when you last traveled to Cadiz or surroundings.